The easternmost part of the Alps is in Slovenia and is called the Julian Alps. For a long time, we had wanted to hike there. It is more natural, untouched and wilder than in Germany, Austria, Switzerland or Italy. Let me take you with us on a wonderful 72 km hiking week in the Triglav National Park …
An ascent in the rain
From Mojstrana to Dom Valentina Staniča (17 km)
After we had gone to work for the last few weeks in a 40°C heat, heavy and cold rain set in punctually for our holiday. It stayed consistently for several days. We travelled on Saturday with a direct train connection from Weinheim to Jesenice, Slovenia. There we spent the night in Mojstrana. The following day we climbed the mountain for six hours in continuous rain. Actually, we wanted to spend the night in the hut Triglavski Dom, just below the summit. But an hour and a half before our arrival we were so completely soaked and frozen that we fled to the nearby Dom Valentina Staniča.
No summits today
From Dom Valentina Staniča to Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih (11 km)
The next morning it was still raining. Our clothes and shoes were still wet. We hiked to Triglavski Dom because we were hoping for better weather. We really wanted to climb to the highest point of Slovenia: The Triglav, 2864 meters above sea level. But it continued to rain and so we just warmed up with a cup of coffee and walked further west. It makes no sense to stand on a summit to see absolutely nothing. Especially as in the wet the via ferrata became dangerous. First, we came to the hut Dom Planika – it was still raining! After another two hours we arrived at Koča na Doliču and see there: The rain decreased and finally stopped completely! We took a lunch break, ate goulash with polenta and dried our clothes.
In the afternoon we finally reached our next destination: the hut Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih. The clouds kept drifting away and now we had real sunshine for the first time! We washed at the lake, occupied our beds, rested and enjoyed finally a dreamlike sunset with following starry sky. The landscape around the hut was simply beautiful! And there was even a small group of chamois (mountain goats) that wandered around quite close.
The Valley of the Seven Lakes
From Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih to Koča na Planini (10 km)
From now on the weather was always on our side: no heat, but also no rain during the hikes. On Tuesday we hiked down the long and beautiful valley of the seven lakes to the south. This part of the way is really picturesque! Right and left of the path it was full of wildflowers and you could hear the humming and buzzing of the insects. The lakes, which lay mirror-smooth between the rocks, reflected the peaks of the mountains, which were slowly bathed in golden light by the sun. Finally, we entered an enchanted old forest that seemed like a fairy tale. From the many rains of the past days, the ground was slippery and muddy. But the air was wonderfully fresh and the lush green of the vegetation shone in the glow of the sun. Arriving at the last of the seven lakes (Črno Jezero), we took a long break and sunbathed. It was an idyllic place where I would have loved to camp. But the next rain clouds were coming! We turned off again towards the northeast and climbed up to the hut Koča na Planini, which is situated in a pretty clearing right next to a deep black lake. Shortly after our arrival the rain started and pelted the whole night. We met Dafna from Israel and Shelly from Australia and had nice conversations.
Over hill and dale
From Koča na Planini to Vodnikov Dom (9 km)
On Wednesday a narrow path led us for hours through beautiful, dense forests towards the north. We passed a nice mountain pasture called Planina V Lazu and then climbed steeply again until we left the tree line behind us. We walked through an idyllic valley, which was crossed by a wide swollen brook and climbed at the northern end up to the hut Vodnikov Dom. After a long rain shower, we enjoyed a fantastic sunset.
Back to civilization
From Vodnikov Dom to Grabče (25 km)
The last day of our hike led us through the long Krma valley in a wide arc back to civilization. After a hard 25 km march, we reached Grabče and drove the last part by bus to Jesenice. There a nice hotel room, a warm shower, and the Chilli Bar – a Mexican restaurant – awaited us.
Enjoy my 3D fly-through along the hiking route:
And some more pictures…